BLENDED Beauté

I’m sure by now many have seen this recent picture of supermodel Naomi Campbell who is suffering from a severe case of traction alopecia. How this happened to Naomi is pretty obvious: Years and years of stress and tension on her hair and scalp from wearing weaves. How can this be prevented? How should you take care of your hair and scalp while wearing added hair? I have had many hairstyles including weave so to answer these questions and more, I reached out to my own hairstylist, Nakia Spriggs of Concepts The Salon & Spa.

Q: How long have you been a hair care professional? I have been a professional hair stylist for nine years and a master stylist for four years.

Q: What areas of expertise are you known for? My expertise is in hair health and care, cuts, color and hair addition (weaving).

Q: How would you describe your style? It took me several years to develop my own personal style or what I like to call my signature. My signature consists of a trendy cut that has movement and attitude but can be easily maintained. My short styles are feminine yet sassy, have high shine and minimal hair spray but longevity. As a stylist, my passion is to make women feel beautiful, confident and sexy; keeping them current with the trends while incorporating their own attitude and lifestyle, without compromising the health of their hair.

Q: How do you impress upon your clients to have healthy hair? I am very serious about the health of my clients scalp and hair because without that, you can not have a beautiful result. I always suggest that chemical relaxing [touch-ups] should be done no sooner then 8 to 10 weeks and that the hair should not be made bone straight. This prevents premature hair thinning and hair breakage. Thermal styling should be kept to a minimum. Hair should be maintained through pin curling or wrapping the hair (in opposite directions) and securing with pins and a satin or silk scarf nightly.

Q: If a client wants a weave, do you consult with them first? What’s your process? When it comes to weaving and hair coloring consultations are a must. This ensures that the health of the hair is maintained and or restored and that it fits the clients lifestyle. During the consultation, we discuss if the client has any allergies to animals or fibers, the style they are trying to achieve and the maintainance of the weave.

Q: Of the various ways to add hair, do you prefer one technique over the other? Is one technique less damaging than another?

1. There are many techniques for hair enhancement or addition. Some are temporary like bonding which is good for trying out various highlight colors or to add volume or a dramatic touch to a hair cut. Bonding should not be a regular routine because it can cause thinning and permanent hair loss if not removed properly.

2. Sewn-in weaves can be beneficial to clients if done properly and can in fact aid in maintaining or achieving healthy hair. By braiding the hair up (putting the hair away and giving it a break), the client can achieve various styles and colors without compromising the health of their hair. The hair should be braided with minimal tension and in a pattern that mimics the direction of hair growth. This prevents premature hair loss and hair growth disorders. This type of weave should be kept in no longer than three months and no shorter than two months. Most of the time I suggest that clients at the max do three cycles of three months to get them into another season that their hair is the most manageable, and during that season is when they wear their own hair. During this “rest,” hair is conditioned and the scalp is kept clean for optimal results. This method is one I prefer because it enables the client versatility, aids in hair restoration and is easy to maintain.

3. Another type of hair addition is infusion and micro-links. Both of these methods require the hair to be at optimal health and is beneficial to only certain hair textures that are medium to course in texture, and have a high elasticity (ability to maintain the added weight of the hair). These methods consist of adding strands of hair to the clients hair strands at about a 10-to-1 ratio by bonding the fibers with a protein-based resin substance that hardens (infusion) or by very small metal cylinders that are bent with a tool to secure the added hair to the clients hair (micro links). Both methods are good for adding color effects, fullness and length and last from five to six months with proper maintenance.

4. Lastly,  lace wigs are another type of hair addition that is beneficial to those who have alopecia, which is a disorder of the scalp that causes permanent hair loss, or those who have lost their hair from various illnesses or medication. This method is very natural-looking and painless. The wig is attached to the head by adhesives in either a glue or tape and can be removed nightly or kept on as long as 6 weeks. This method is only meant for those with major hair loss issues and is not recommended for those with a full head of hair and with a healthy hairline because improper use can cause permanent hair loss.

Q: What are your thoughts on the pics of Naomi? When [weave] techniques are done properly and with care they can be very beneficial to the client; however, too much of one thing can also be detrimental. Such is the case with Naomi Campbell’s hairline. Constant tension from braiding has caused self-inflicted alopecia to the extent that the whole hair follicle was removed from the scalp leaving smooth edges and the inability for hair to regrow. This is becoming the ultimate outcome for many who constantly apply tension to their hair through braiding. But even in this, there are many other ways to restore the hair and incorporate a healthy routine.

Q: This is great information. Thanks for your time Nakia. How can people reach you and see your work? They can call Concepts The Salon & Spa at 301-952-9550; email niksconcept@verizon.net or visit us on Facebook under Concepts The Salon and Spa.